Three Perfect Days in Wine Country

I always tell clients - people travel to wine country to visit Napa, but they return for Sonoma. Far from the behemoth commercial operations of Napa, Sonoma county is full of boutique, mom-and-pop wineries where you are likely to sit down to your tasting with the wine maker or owner. Each time I travel to Sonoma, I stumble upon a new, delightful hidden gem of a winery, and meet the most wonderful, passionate people, which keeps me coming back year after year.

Sonoma is also undeniably romantic, with crisp, foggy mornings that beg you to stay tucked in bed, and star-filled evening skies far from the lights of nearby San Francisco. Days are spent winery hopping, stretching out by the pool, and, of course, eating. Below are my thoughts on how to spend a long weekend in wine country based on our past experiences.

Where to Stay - Farmhouse Inn

I am often asked where my favorite hotel in the world is. With how much I travel in my career, I've been fortunate to visit top properties all over the world, from five star camps in remote corners of Africa to breathtaking beaches in the Maldives. However, my "happy place" is much closer to home - a little boutique property in the town of Forestville called the Farmhouse Inn.

I found Farmhouse completely by chance in 2015. Matt and I embarked on a California road trip, starting in wine country and making our way down to Big Sur over the course of a week. Since that first trip, we've come back every year - and now Farmhouse feels like home.

What makes this property so special is a combination of the surprise and delight touches - the gourmet s’mores with homemade marshmallows you can roast over the firepit at night, the complimentary evening wine tastings with Joe and Katherine (the owners), the handmade soap you can take to your room from the front desk - and the staff.

I have never worked with a concierge and front office team as excellent as that of Farmhouse. They make a concerted effort to greet every guest by name each time you pop by the front desk, and their connections to surrounding wineries and restaurants are fantastic. Each dinner reservation or winery you visit greets you as a VIP when your booking comes through Farmhouse.

And of course, I love the fact that the little black house cat, Charlotte, will allow me to lure her into my room for a snuggle by the fire in the evenings.

Runner ups for places to stay:

· Gaige House – a Japanese-style bed and breakfast

· Wheelman House – Healdsburg

· Carneros Inn – Napa

Where to Eat

Great food goes hand-in-hand with great wine, and wine country is all about dining experiences.

The Michelin star restaurant onsite at Farmhouse is a must - breakfasts are fresh and tasty, often incorporating vegetables and berries grown right on property. Dinners are a phenomenal parade of flavors, presented in an atmosphere that manages to remain unstuffy and homey. A fixture on the menu is the chef’s “Rabbit Rabbit Rabbit.”

Forget Meadowood or French Laundry; nearby Healdsburg is home to the best restaurants in the area - Single Thread, Valette, Barn Diva, and Chalk Board make appearances in our itineraries frequently.

In Forestville, a short jaunt from Farmhouse, you’ll find Canneti Italian Roadhouse, a casual bistro with impressive homemade pasta that makes for a nice break from the more formal options in the county.

What to Experience

Part of what I enjoy most is finding local experts, unique people with connections and passions for a particular area that can make a trip truly an unforgettable experience. Travel is not just about site seeing, it’s about gaining a sense of place from the people that call an area home.

On this most recent trip, we were lucky enough to enjoy a wine pairing meal with Advanced Sommelier Andre Boada at Mateo's in Healdsburg - a delicious affair of Yucutan flavors personally served by the Mateo’s (the chef), daughter. Andre brought along a winemaker for the presentation of the pairings - the guy behind Red Car when it was originally created. Andre's connections in wine country run deep, and he's a favorite contact of mine for various wine-related events around the US.

For the more active traveler, I recommend a bike tour of the wineries or breweries – Ubers are scarce in the valley and pedaling between wineries is a more adventurous (and certainly more affordable) way to check out the local vineyards.

Other experiences to keep on your radar, depending on your interests, are:

· Hot air balloon ride over the vineyards

· Helicopter over the coast

· Day trip to Bodega Bay for oyster tasting

· Hike in the redwoods – check out Armstrong Woods with a park docent

· Cooking class (I recommend Capo Creek) Wine

Obviously, the reason to head to wine country is the wine tasting experience, which is best done by hiring a private car and driver. This will run you about $100-$130 an hour, and it’s best to plan ahead and discuss your wine preferences with the driver at least a week in advance so he or she can plan out your course and make tasting reservations.

Things to think about when deciding which wineries to visit –

· Winery size – ask your driver about production size for the wineries you are discussing. Do you prefer small, boutique operations or bigger names (like La Crema)? I tend to prefer places that have a production of 5,000 cases or fewer.

· What types of wines do you want to focus on? The Russian River Valley is most famous for Chardonnays & Pinots, Dry Creek for Zinfandel, Napa for Cabernets & Chardonnays, etc. A few places, like Iron Horse, serve bubbles, but they are more scarce in this area.

· How much time do you want to spend at each winery? Make sure to pick wineries that are relatively close to each other, so you can maximize your tasting time and not spend all your time in a car driving between locations.

· What day of the week? Keep in mind the most popular days for tastings are Saturdays and Sundays, so if you can schedule your tastings for a Friday or Thursday, you’ll have a better chance of a more private experience.

· The tasting experience. Do you want exclusively private tastings or are you ok sharing the space with other people? Look up photos of the tasting room and see if you like the ambience.

· Do you need to plan for lunch? Would you prefer to eat at a winery, a restaurant, or make a quick pit stop for sandwiches? When doing the latter, make sure to check if the winery allows you to bring in outside food, as most do not.

o If you are looking for a winery that serves food, Lynmar has a great lunch and some beautiful gardens. It’s also right down the road from Farmhouse.

The best winery experiences in Sonoma are typically by appointment only, and Blue Rock Vineyard is among the top of those private offerings. Blue Rock is off the beaten path - so far tucked up in the mountains that Uber drivers struggle to find it. Their renovated barn offers sweeping views of the surrounding vineyards, and is the perfect location for special dinners. Carla Jeffries really makes the experience special. She takes you on a tour of the vineyard, lets you sample grapes, lays out a spectacular spread of meats and cheeses, and is an effervescent host bubbling over with facts about the history of Blue Rock and the wines made there.

If you're traveling with another couple or family, you may want to rent their vintners’ cottage onsite. For $899 a night, this two-bedroom stone cottage is an original from 100 years ago. Imagine relaxing by your own private pool, looking out over the vineyards, before grilling fish on their open-air kitchen grill and cracking a bottle of Blue Rock's latest vintage.

For unique experiences, you can participate in the wine harvest or “crush”, take a sensory tasting class, or indulge in a private chef dinner (great for anniversaries or special occasions).

Bottom Line

If you’re looking for a special weekend away with your significant other, Sonoma county should be at the top of your list. I’m happy to help you plan your trip there!